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Madison Bubble

Check out this fresh look for the Madison pattern! Melissa preserves the top portion and redrafts the bottom to turn the romper into an adorable bubble. It is so fun to have a pattern where you can coordinate two fabrics and is works well for both girls and boys.

This new version is fully lined and has a trim fit more similar to Johnny than to other Children's Corner bubbles. Added to the lower romper are gripper snaps and elastic, in place of the leg bands. A classic button closure is done at the straps and yoke. Follow instructions below and in the video rather than those in the Madison pattern.

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Pattern: Madison Top Fabric: London Parks Kensington Confetti A by Liberty x Riley Blake

Main Fabric: Seersucker Pink Check by Fabric Finders


Pattern: Madison Top Fabric: Gingham 1/16" Gray by Fabric Finders

Main Fabric: Elephant Friends by Cloud9 Fabrics

*Available at while supplies last.


Children’s Corner Madison Fabric - Fabric requirements from pattern for romper, and also lining fabric in the same amount as romper. Contrast fabric for straps and yoke 1/4 yd for all sizes. Piping – 1 yard Buttons (1/2" - 5/8") - 2 see pattern cover

Elastic (1/4") - 1/2 yard

Corded Piping - 1 yard Featherweight fusible interfacing Tracing Paper – optional

Drafting Instructions

1. For 18 month size front romper only: place yoke facing pattern piece on top of front romper pattern piece matching at center fold, side seam and upper edge. Arm curve will not match. Trace a new front romper pattern piece using armhole curve from yoke pattern piece and all other cutting lines from the romper. Some pattern packages contain a correction sheet with a new front yoke pattern piece. Use this instead of redrafting. Alternatively, you can click here and print on your own.

2. Romper front and back pattern pieces: Straighten curve at romper crotch. To do this extend the line of the center fold line down. Draw a line from lowest point of the romper over to this extended line making it perpendicular to the fold line. Cut lower edge along these new lines. Repeat for romper back.

3. Cut 4 straps by the pattern, but reduce length by 1".

4. Cut romper yoke facings by pattern. To make stitching piping easier later, slightly curve corner angle at lower yoke edge.

5. Leg facings are not needed in this modification.

6. Interfacing is optional for yoke and straps, but is recommended if fabric is lightweight and if piping will be added to yoke.


1. Interface 2 yoke pieces and 2 strap pieces. Cut 2 strips of interfacing 1" by the length of the front and back romper crotches. Trim to fit and press to wrong sides of romper fabric.

2. Place romper front and romper back right sides together and stitch side seams. Press seams open. Repeat with romper linings except leave a 4" opening in one lining side seam.

3. Place yoke facings right sides together and stitch one underarm side seam. Press seam open.

4. Trim piping seam allowance to ¼ inch and gently press to a curve with raw edge on outside of curve.

5. Pin or glue piping to lower yoke edge matching raw edges. Clip piping seam allowance to ease curves into place and pivot at corners. Stitch in place along piping seam line. Pull 3/8" of cording out of piping at each end and trim to reduce bulk.

6. Stitch remaining side seam of yoke facing with right sides together. Press seam open.

7. Trim seam allowance of piped yoke facing and clip curves. Press piping seam allowance up toward the yoke facing.

8. Pin and baste wrong side of yoke facing to right side of yoke romper matching raw edges and side seams.

9. Stitch-in-the-ditch in the piping/yoke seam line. Alternatively, topstitch facing to romper 1 /16" from piping/yoke seam.

10. Shoulder straps: With right sides together stitch two strap pieces together. Stitch down one long side, across one short side and back up the other long side pivoting at the corners. Clip corners and turn right side out. Press well. Repeat for the other strap.

11. Trim away excess romper fabric from behind yoke facing to reduce bulk.

12. Pin shoulder straps to upper edge of romper back 3/8" from the raw edge of the armhole curve. Stitch in place using a scant 1/4" seam allowance.

13. Place romper into romper lining with right sides together. Pin together top of romper matching raw edges, curves and side seams. Take care to place the front romper to the front romper lining when pinning. Stitch. Trim and clip seams. Turn right sides out and press well.

14. Stitch the lower leg seams one leg at a time. Start with romper right side out. Hold the side seam of the lower leg edge of lining in one hand and the side seam of the lower leg edge of the romper in the other hand from the same side. Wrap the leg edges around the top of the romper encasing the rest of the fabric in between. Pin the leg edges with right sides together, matching raw edges and side seams. Stitch one leg seam. Turn romper right side out by pulling the fabric through the crotch and press. Repeat with the other lower leg seam pulling fabric out to right side through open crotch area.

15. Finish the ends of the front inseam by folding 1/4" of the fabric to the inside, between the romper fabric and lining. Press. Stitch 1/8” from the edge, and stitch again 3/4” from the edge. Repeat for back inseam. Alternatively, you can pull the open inseams though the lining side seam opening and stitch with right sides together.

16. On front romper for sizes 12-24 months measure up 2" from front romper lower inseam and make a mark at leg edge on both sides. For 6 months size measure up 1 ½" on the front.

17. On back romper for 12-24 months measure up 2 ½" from romper inseam and make a mark at leg edge on both sides. For 6 months measure up 2" on the back. These will be the end points for the elastic casings.

18. Stitch a line from the mark in front to the mark in back on left side 3/8" from the leg edge to form a casing. Repeat for right leg.

19. Cut elastic lengths according to chart below.

20. Going through the opening in the lining and using a safety pin, run elastic through the casings. Stitch elastic in place along casing end marks. Elastic should extend 1/2" beyond each end of casing. Repeat for other leg.

21. Close the opening in the romper lining with a whipstitch.

22. Work vertical buttonholes to upper yoke according to pattern markings. Sew buttons to straps. Add 3 gripper snaps at crotch with front lapping over back 3/4".

Adaptation by Melissa Sansom

Click the printer icon below for printable version.


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