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Ruffle Collar Lee

Updated: Jun 7, 2023

Inspired by royal and European fashion, we fell in love with this soft ruffle at the neck of our yoke dress, Lee. We attach the ruffle in such a way that it lays flat perfectly framing her sweet face. Choose between two options, a folded ruffle or a hemmed ruffle.


Cutting Instructions

1. Cut out pattern as directed in the Lee pattern, except for collar. 2. Cut 1/4” away from front and back yoke neckline on dress and lining yoke pieces.

3. Measure length of the neckline from fold line to fold line. The ruffle can be cut either on the straight grain or crossgrain.

For folded ruffle: measuring 3/4" finished – cut neck ruffle 2” wide by 1.75x the length of the neckline. For hemmed ruffle: measuring 1 ½” finished – cut neck ruffle 2” wide by 2x the length of the neckline.

4. Cut bias neckband 1 1/8" wide by length of neckline (fold line to fold line on back yoke) + 1”.


1. Follow Lee instructions through #29. Skip the collar section.

2. Turn dress right side out. The neck edge will be unfinished. Make a mark on the left-hand back bodice 3/4” from folded edge.

3. Continue with your choice of ruffle using instructions below.

For folded ruffle – fold fabric strip lengthwise with right sides together. Sew short ends. Trim seam to 1/8” and turn right side out. Press. For hemmed ruffle – press under 1/8” on each short end of the ruffle strip. Then press under 1/8” again and stitch along the edge making a tiny seam. Repeat with one long edge of the ruffle.

4. Sew two lines of gathering threads on ruffle, stitching the first line 1/8” from raw edge and second line 3/8” from raw edge. Gather ruffle to fit neckline from righthand back bodice folded edge to mark on left-hand back bodice. Pin and baste in place.

5. Press under one long edge of neckband 1/4” with wrong sides together. Place and pin the neckband on the right side of the dress around the neck edge matching raw edges. Leave 1/4” of neckband extending beyond back edges of dress and trim excess neckband. Stitch in place.

6. Press folded neckband away from dress (a). Fold neckband in half with right sides together (b). Stitch across short ends of neckband close to the edge of the dress (c). Trim seam to 1/8”, and turn the band right side out. Whipstitch in place on inside of dress with the fold of the band just covering the stitching line.

7. Continue with instructions at step #32.

Adaptation by Karen Gooch & Melissa Sansom

Click the printer icon below for printable version.


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