Reversible Katina

When you have time to sew one dress, why not sew 2 at the same time. In this tutorial, Melissa sews a reversible Katina. One side is gathered, and the other side is smocked. She purposely makes the skirt of the gathered version to hang lower than the smocked version, so when it serves as the lining the gingham will peak below the floral print. To make buttoning easier stitch buttons on both sides of the shoulder straps offset from each other 1/8-1/4 inch.

Supplies

Children’s Corner Katina pattern (sewn from the revised version) Fabric requirements are the same

Instructions

Reversible Gathered Katina

If you are making both the outer view and reverse view of the dress gathered use the instructions for a lined Katina. Consider using fabrics that coordinate since the hem of one skirt will peek out behind the other when reverse side is worn. Take care when whip-stitching the yoke to skirts on the reverse side that you use tiny, neat stitching.

Reversible Smocked to Gathered Katina

Choose fabrics that are lightweight and coordinate since one hem will peek under the other when worn on the alternate side.

1. Cut all 4 skirts using the smocked skirt measurements. No bias strips are needed.

2. Pleat and smock the smocked view prior to construction following instructions in pattern for pleating, tying off and smocking. Cut armholes. Stitch and finish side seams.

3. Follow pattern instructions for stitching the smocked skirts to the yokes. Armholes are unfinished for now, so the raw edges of the armholes will line up with the raw edges of the yoke. Smocking will be between the dots with ¼ inch seam allowance at each end. Stitch skirt to yoke with right sides together. Trim seam and press up. Repeat for back yoke.

4. For the reverse view of the dress cut armholes, stitch and finish side seams. Stitch gathering threads along top of front and back gathered skirts per pattern instructions.

5. Follow pattern instructions for stitching the gathered skirts to the yokes. Armholes are unfinished for now, so the raw edges of the armholes will line up with the raw edges of the yokes. Gathers are pulled up to the space between the dots and there will be with ¼ inch seam allowance at each end. Stitch skirt to yoke with right sides together. Trim seam and press up. Repeat for back yoke.

6. Construct shoulder straps and stitch in place to one back yoke per pattern instructions.

7. Place the gathered dress inside the smocked dress with right sides together matching yokes, side seams and armhole curves.

8. Pin and stitch dresses together all the way around yokes and armhole curves using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim seams and clip curves. Turn dress right side out and press.

9. Hem skirts separately. Hem reverse skirt ½-1 inch shorter than the outer skirt.

10. To make buttoning easier stitch buttons on both sides of the shoulder straps offset from each other 1/8-1/4 inch.

Adaptation by Melissa Sansom

Click the printer icon below for printable version.