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Bailey Stars Applique

Updated: May 31, 2023

The bib on Bailey begs for an appliqué or unique detail. This post shows you how to add these darling stars using your sewing machine (no machine embroidery required)! You may think of Madeira applique as a technique used to create a scalloped hem, but it can be used for any applique with a turned edge. Madeira Appliqué originated in Madeira, Portugal, hence the name, and it has deep roots in heirloom sewing. We use the classic technique in a new way to simplify the turned edge by using a fusible interfacing with the applique. A pin stitch is then used to attach the appliqué to the garment.


Supplies

Lightweight fusible interfacing preferably woven Needle Size 70/10 universal or microtex Monofilament/clear thread

Star Applique Pattern (download here)

Cutting Instructions

1. Cut out each appliqué shape from fabric and fusible woven interfacing. When cutting, make sure the right side of the fabric is UP and the fusible side of the interfacing is DOWN.

Construction

1. Place the right side of the fabric to the fusible side of the interfacing. Stitch all the way around the appliqué using a 1/8” seam allowance and stitch length of 1.5mm to add strength and improve precision. Use an all-purpose foot and move the needle position to the far right, or use an open toe foot or an edge stitch foot.


2. Trim carefully across each outside corner and clip perpendicularly towards the stitching on the curved edges. 3. Cut a 1” slit in the middle of the interfacing, and turn appliqué right side out with the fusible side facing out.

4. Use a point turner to smooth the edges and smooth the edges with your fingers. Use a sheet of parchment paper or a Teflon Pressing Surface and press the appliqués with fusible side DOWN onto the parchment paper. This will give the edges of the appliqués a finished look. 5. Position the appliqués on the garment. Fold rick rack in half and tuck under the top of the sail. Fuse appliques to garment using a medium-hot iron. 6. Select a pin stitch or one that looks similar to a pin stitch using length of 1.5mm and width of 2.0mm. If your machine has the mirror image function, it is helpful to use so the appliqué is to the left of the needle. 7. Stitch all the way around the appliqué using monofilament/clear thread. When pivoting around outside curves and outside corners, pivot with the needle down in the fabric on the outside of the appliqué. If you are pivoting around an inside curve (concave), pivot with the needle on the appliqué (inside). Instructions by Susan Whitman


Click the printer icon below for printable version.

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