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Sleeveless Smocked Jamie

Updated: Jan 3

This sleeveless smocked version of our Jamie bubble is a classic look that works all summer long. We adapted View A and C of the pattern to achieve the look. We chose a sweet Liberty print Chamomile with our newest Children’s Corner smocking plate, Delta.


Cutting Instructions

1. For front yoke lining, trace Front Yoke Guide View C. Add 1/4” to neckline for collar. With new pattern piece, cut 1.

2. For front yoke, use Front Yoke View A, and cut 1 on fold.

3. For back yoke and linings, use Back Yoke. Fold the piece on the fold line. Using the View A cutting line at the neck and the View C cutting line at the bottom and the piece still folded, cut 2 pieces on the fold.

4. For bubble front, use Bubble Front View A, and cut 1 on the fold using View A cutting line.

5. For bubble back, use Bubble Back View C and cut 1 on the fold using View C cutting line.

6. For collar, cut 4. If interfacing your collar, cut 2 interfacings and fuse to the wrong side of the top collar pieces.

Construction Instructions

1. Follow the Jamie instructions for Getting Ready to Smock for View A&C. We recommend pleating 8 rows and smocking 6 rows.

2. Tie off the top section based on the measurements for View A. Tie off the bottom section based on the measurements for View C. Do not cut pleater threads until front yoke is stitched to bubble front.

3. Sew front yoke to bubble front following the Jamie instructions for Front Yokes – View A. TIP: Apply Wonder Tape to the seam allowance of piping. Remove paper from other side of Wonder Tape. Fold the piping seam allowance back and align the piping just above the first row of smocking and attach matching center fronts of yoke and shirt. You should not see any pleated fabric between the piping and the top row of smocking.

4. Make collars following steps 1-4 in the Collar section.

5. On the back yokes, press along the fold with wrong sides together. Lay both yokes folded with a right and left. Label side facing up with a “L” for Lining with a fabric marking pen or use a straight pin. This side is now the back yoke lining.

6. Stitch shoulder seams of yokes with the right sides together, and press seam open. Repeat with lining. For more information, see our video about self-facing yokes.

7. Unfold yokes with dress fabric laying flat with wrong side down. Lining will be bunched together. Place collar on dress right side up, matching raw edges, and pin in place. Baste.

8. Fold yoke lining on top of collar with right sides together and neck edges aligned. Match center fronts and shoulder seams. Collar will be between fabric and lining. Stitch around neck. Clip seams and trim to 1/8”.

9. Before turning yokes right side out, stitch around armholes. Clip seams, and turn right side out through each shoulder seam. Press.

10. Stitch the placket in the bubble back and back yoke to bubble back, following Jamie instructions Bubble Back section. When stitching the yokes to the bubble, leave the lining loose like the back yoke facing.

11. Stitch side seams with right sides together. Flip the linings up to continue stitching them with right sides together. Finish seams.

12. Turn under yoke lining ¼”, and press. Topstitch hem in place.

13. Continue with the Finishing section of the Jamie instructions.

Adaptation by Cathy Jones and Susan Whitman

Click the printer icon below for printable version.


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