Updated: May 24
Katina is a soft and breezy dress, and never has this been more true than in this version made with knit. We show you the few minor modifications necessary in this tutorial. Melissa teaches in this video.
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Fabric: Knit Blooms Field Fresh
Buttons: 5/8" Plastic Buttons in Hot Pink
*Available at childrenscornerstore.com while supplies last.
Children’s Corner Katina pattern Fabric requirements from pattern Baby interfacing (1/4 yard) 2 buttons Jersey machine needle Jersey twin needle (optional) Stitch Witchery (½ in) or Lite Steam-a-Seam (both optional)
General Knit Sewing Instructions
1. Always wash and dry fabric in the way that the garment will be washed and dried once it is being worn. Knit fabrics do shrink much more than wovens.
2. Always use a jersey or stretch machine needle. Twin needles also come in stretch and add a nice finishing touch to topstitching. A stretch twin needle with 2.5mm width between the needles was used on this garment.
3. Most “straight” stitching is done with a narrow zig-zag. A stitch width of 0.5 and a length of 2.5 was used on this garment for construction.
4. Take care when ironing that you press with and up-and-down motion rather than dragging the iron over the fabric. Use a gentle hand as you handle and stitch using knits. The goal is for the fabric not to distort as it is stitched or ironed.
1. Interface both pieces of the front and back yokes and all pieces of the shoulder straps (8 pieces total). To avoid stretching it is best to iron interfacing to a block of fabric large enough to fit the pieces, and then cut out the fabric. Transfer all pattern markings to pieces after they are cut out.
2. Cut out skirts according to pattern instructions for the gathered skirt, except subtract 1 inch from the skirt length. After the dress is constructed the hem will be turned under just 1 inch rather than 2 inches like the woven version. Mark and cut out armhole curves.
3. Read section below to see which option you will use for the underarm seam. For option 1, you do not need to cut a bias strip. For option 2, cut 2 strips of fabric on the grain (not bias) using the long length of the bias strip pattern piece by 1 ¼ inches. Iron these strips of fabric in half lengthwise with wrong sides together.
1. Stitch side seams with right sides together and finish seams.
2. Underarm Seam Option 1-- (preferred and easy) Serge the edge of the fabric under the arm. Press under 3/8in and then topstitch using a straight stitch with a length of 3. This option is quick, easy and is also preferred as the armhole curve is less likely to stretch using this method.
3. Underarm Seam Option 2—follow pattern instructions #12. Take care not to stretch the underarm curve of the dress fabric as you stitch the strip in place. Very gently stretching the strip as you pin, but not stretching the dress curve will result in a nicer finish. Once the fabric strip is stitched to the curve, trim seam to 1/8 inch. Press fabric strip to wrong side and topstitch ¼ inch from the edge using a straight stitch with a length of 3.
4. Piping is not used on this dress. Beginning at pattern step #14 continue following the instructions in pattern to construct the dress. Remember all “straight” stitching during construction is done with a narrow zig-zag with width of 0.5 and length of 2.5.
5. If desired, after construction of the straps and the yokes top-stitch 1/8 inch from the finished edges using a straight stitch with a length of 3.
6. For the hem serge the raw edge if you have have a serger. Press hem under 1 inch. Iron “stitch witchery” or lite steam-a-seam under the folded hem between the layers. Topstitch hem in place using a twin needle or stitch with a wide zig-zag.
Instructions by Melissa Sansom
Click the printer icon below for printable version.